Sunscreen Safety: Understanding 'Grase' Ingredients and What to Avoid

We all know what sunscreen is (or do we?) and that we should use it (right?). But you may have heard internet chatter about some sunscreen ingredients being “toxic” and wondered: how do I know if my sunscreen is safe to use?

Understanding why something so necessary might actually be bad for you is the first step. Because sunscreen makes health claims such as preventing sunburn and reducing risk of skin cancer and premature skin aging, it is regulated for safety and effectiveness in the US by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as an over-the-counter or non-prescription drug (rather than a cosmetic).

The FDA evaluates OTC medication ingredients by the standard of “generally recognized as safe and effective” (Grase). “Nontoxic”, “clean” or “natural” are not legally defined terms to label sunscreen in the US. They’re essentially marketing; any brand can use them without meeting a specific standard. The key is to read the label carefully to determine active and inactive ingredients to evaluate those claims.

There are an overwhelming number of options on the market, but only three sunscreen ingredients are considered Grase: the mineral filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and bemotrizinol, a chemical filter that is new to the US market.

As for what ingredients to watch out for? Parabens, which are preservatives used in many cosmetics, and phthalates, which are chemicals used to improve the texture and shelf life of sunscreen. Both are considered safe within regulatory limits, but parabens can cause skin irritation and endocrine disruption, while phthalates mimic estrogen activity and can possibly disrupt hormones, affecting fertility or child development. To avoid these ingredients, look for “paraben-free” on the label or check the inactive ingredients list and look for acronyms such as DEHP, DBP or DEP, which are different types of phthalates. (Phthalates are often listed as “fragrance” on labels, so one trick is to avoid artificial fragrances.)

We asked dermatologist experts to weigh in on what makes sunscreens safest and recommend their favorite nontoxic sunscreens.

Meet our sunscreen experts:

Michael Girardi, MD, FAAD, is the vice-chair for faculty development and scientific innovation and the Evans professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine in New Haven, Connecticut.

Sapna Palep, MD, FAAD, MBA is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Spring Street Dermatology and Journelle Skin in New York City.

Divya Shokeen, MD, FAAD is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of OSVI Dermatology and Surgery Institute in Los Angeles. She is also the founder of Oathology Skincare.

Best sunscreens for face

Tinted sunscreen provides sun protection with a touch of makeup coverage. It generally contains active mineral ingredients, but some can also contain chemical screens – just make sure to check the label. One disadvantage is that some brands have limited shade ranges, making it hard to find a perfect match. (If there’s SPF in your foundation, you should also wear sunscreen. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends an SPF of 30 or higher, 50 or higher for a day outdoors, reapplying every two hours. Tinted moisturizers or foundations with SPF may not meet those standards.)

For deeper skin tones, he recommends tinted mineral sunscreens such as:

Best sunscreens for kids

For little ones, Shokeen recommends using only mineral formulations: “My young kids are in the habit of wearing sunscreen every day on their face and hands.”

Girardi also opts for “zinc oxide and titanium dioxide only”. Bemotrizinol, when it’s available, is expected to be used in pediatric formulations, he says, and suggests extra sun protection in clothing and bathing suits. “Use a hat early and often to get them used to it.” This is also a great option if you’re never used sunscreen and are overwhelmed with the abundance of choices.

Best sunscreens for sensitive skin

Best sunscreens for acne-prone or oily skin

Best spray sunscreen

While these sunscreens are convenient, most people just spray and go, says Shokeen, who doesn’t recommend them. Unless you rub in the product after you spray, you don’t get enough coverage. “I also steer patients away from spray preparations, which go on inconsistently, leaving gaps in protection,” says Girardi. “I much prefer creams and lotions. Sprays also have the added risk of inhalation.”

But if you must spray your sunscreen …

Best stick sunscreen

Best reef-safe sunscreen

Best sunscreen for sports

Best sunscreens for dry skin

Best sunscreen for many skin tones

Frequently asked questions about sunscreen

What are the types of chemical sunscreens?

There is a sunscreen out there that’s right for you, if you know what to look for and what you want.

Chemical sunscreens such as avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate and homosalate are carbon-based molecules that sink into the upper layers of skin, absorb UV radiation and then release the energy as a small amount of heat. A series of FDA-commissioned studies between 2019 and 2021 showed that these filters were absorbed into the bloodstream in detectable levels after typical application.

“Once the FDA figured out that several of the chemical agents used in sunscreen formulations exceeded a certain blood level with regular applications, the FDA required further testing to check for toxicity,” Girardi says. The FDA proposed new toxicology testing in 2019; however, none of the disputed ingredients will be removed from shelves while waiting for new data.

In June 2026, the FDA added bemotrizinol (BEMT) to the list of permitted active sunscreen ingredients. It is the first new active ingredient added to the OTC sunscreen safety monograph (the FDA’s official safety rules) since the late 1990s. BEMT has been marketed in Europe and many countries as a sunscreen ingredient for years. It’s broad spectrum, so it protects against both UVA and UVB rays and has low levels of skin absorption, so it’s generally considered Grase for adults and kids (six months and older). Sunscreens that contain BEMT are not as shiny as mineral sunscreens can be, Girardi says. In the US, sunscreens with BEMT should hit store shelves in September under the brand name Parsol Shield.

What are the options for mineral sunscreens?

Look for zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are the two FDA-approved Grase mineral active ingredients. On the skin’s surface, they create a physical barrier that works to scatter and absorb UV rays, keeping them from penetrating the upper skin layers. Both have long safety records, but some formulations with higher concentrations can leave a white tone on the skin, which is more apparent on deeper skin hues. Sunscreen companies have addressed this by reducing the size of particles via micronization, a process that reduces the size of standard zinc oxide and titanium dioxide particles.

Nano particles are smaller than standard-sized particles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. This reduces the white cast some mineral sunscreens leave on the skin. Research has concluded that these nano particles don’t penetrate healthy, intact skin in significant amounts – but if your skin barrier is severely compromised, this may not apply.

What are some other sunscreen options?

A fun (and useful) souvenir from a trip abroad is sunscreen, especially from Europe and Asia, where sunscreens are treated as cosmetic products and not OTC drugs, like they are in the US. This allows for a more streamlined approval process and a broader range of UV filters. If you’re not traveling anytime soon, you can order sunscreens from specialized websites such as yesstyle.com or frenchpharmacy.com). Popular brands include Beauty of Joseon (a Korean brand), Anessa Perfect UV Sunscreen (from Japan and La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVmune 400 from France.

What to watch out for in sunscreens

Preservatives help keep our skincare products from spoiling and phthalates help with the texture and fragrance. Methylparaben, propylparaben and other parabens are preservatives used in many cosmetics and some sunscreens. The FDA currently considers parabens safe at permitted concentrations in topical products.

Phthalates are chemicals used to improve the texture of personal care products, making them feel smoother and spread easily. Like parabens, many phthalates are considered safe within regulatory limits and remain permitted in the US at regulated levels. The Environmental Working Group website calls phthalates “still widely used chemicals that pollute almost everyone’s bodies”.

Is ‘toxic’ sunscreen really a thing?

The most toxic sunscreen seems to be the one that you do not use, according to our experts. “I wouldn’t consider any sunscreen that is sold in the US to be toxic, so they are all ‘nontoxic,’” Palep says. “There is more of a health risk of not wearing sunscreen and getting skin cancer, versus using a chemical sunscreen and having health issues stem from using the chemical sunscreen. Most patients are not using enough of a chemical sunscreen to cause an issue.”

“People should keep in mind that ‘nontoxic’ here is a double-edged term since UV radiation from the sun is very toxic,” says Giraldi. “It causes mutations and is the biggest risk factor for these deadly skin cancers. And, of course, many like that using sunscreen also decreases signs of skin aging.”

Shokeen agrees. “I do skin cancer surgeries all day long,” she says. “Calling sunscreen ‘toxic’ is 100% a scare tactic – no ifs, ands or buts. So many things we put on topically get into the bloodstream, like retinols. That doesn’t mean it’s bad.” She also finds that her millennial clients are “faring the best”, she says, because they are diligent in their self-care routines (anti-aging potions, wrinkle-fighting lasers such as Fraxel and UltraClear, for example). “They are very good about using sunscreen to protect their investment.”