South-east Queensland swells: BOM warns of beach erosion, hazardous surf

Large and powerful swells along south-east Queensland will be the "key watch point" for weather this weekend, with the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM) expecting more beach scarping — steep sand ridges — on the Gold Coast's already eroded beaches.

BOM has issued a coastal hazard warning stretching from south of Coffs Harbour, north to Moreton Island in Queensland.

Senior forecaster Felim Hanniffy said wave heights up to 4 metres are expected to peak in south-east Queensland on Friday or Saturday.

"That could lead to some significant erosion on some of the beaches, particularly the more south-facing beaches," he said.

"The strongest of the winds will be offshore [but] any showers that the winds bring will probably be more clipping the coast rather than pushing straight on to the coast."

Mr Hanniffy said a low in the Tasman Sea, linked to heavy rainfall earlier this week, has been the "primary driver" of dangerous surf conditions.

"As that low pulls out into the central Tasman Sea, it allows the swells to come more on to the south-east Queensland coast and generate strong to gale-force southerlies," he said.

Mr Hanniffy said wave heights of up to 6 metres were forecast further offshore, where the strongest winds are expected.

Hazardous surf conditions are expected all weekend before easing on Monday.

Other parts of the state can expect fine, cool mornings with warmer conditions in the far north peninsula.

Sand pumping set for next month

Gold Coast chief lifeguard William Ashley said recent weather conditions had caused "minor" erosion at Burleigh Heads.

"We had a run of consistent swell around 2 metres for the last few weeks," he said.

"That coincided with some big tides and inclement weather."

Mr Ashley said the tallest scarping measured three-quarters of a metre.

"Council crews have shored it up, made it safe," he said.

A Gold Coast City Council spokesperson said scarping was "not uncommon" for this time of year, but it would continue to monitor conditions and maintain safe beach access.

Coastal engineer and chief executive at International Coastal Management Angus Jackson said this latest beach erosion was not a concern.

"It's a natural process and to some extent we have to live with it," he said.

"We've got a good sand buffer in front of the wall that now nature's using sacrificially as the sand moves north."

Mr Jackson said the beach has been annually replenished by sand pumped from nearby Tallebudgera Creek for the past four decades.

"If we lose the beach for a short time until the winter nourishment, it's just part of naturally managing the beaches," Mr Jackson said.

"The Gold Coast manages erosion very, very well."

Council said its sand-dredging program was scheduled to resume in July and would "significantly increase" sand volumes in the area.