Mountaineering is practically forbidden, TV only since 1999: a spirit of untouchedness permeates Bhutan. But the country, which has been isolated for a long time, is opening up. And one of the most difficult trails in the world awaits you.
Royal palace with monastery at the confluence of Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu: Punakha Dzong. Photo: Bernhard Krieger/dpa-tmn
Thimphu. He looks at his people from banknotes, stamps and huge posters. There is a personality cult around Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, which is more common with dictators. But the almost shy facial expression of the king, who bears the honorary title “Dragon King” (“Druk Gyalpo”) in his country and is widely revered, doesn’t fit in at all. In the small Himalayan state of Bhutan, many things are different.
The king is a star and at the same time humble. In the capital Thimphu, he lives with his common-law wife Jetsun Pema and three children not in the magnificent royal palace Tashichho Dzong, but in a simple bungalow next door. “They lead a pretty normal life,” says tour guide Mani. “Sometimes the king even rides his bike through the city.”
With a bit of luck - and there is said to be a lot of that in the Himalayan state, where the standard of living is not measured in gross national income but in gross national happiness - foreign visitors can also meet the Dragon King. What tourists definitely come into contact with is Buddhism, the official state religion.
Before important state and royal ceremonies, the court traditionally has specially trained Buddhist astrologers determine favorable times. The many impressive monasteries are among the most important sights. There are around 12,000 monks in the country.
One of them is Mynak Trulku. The monastery abbot, who fled Tibet, was an advisor to the royal family for a long time. He built the National Library and the National Museum - now retired, he enjoys giving lessons on Buddhism.
Where Richard Gere was already looking for answers
In his apartment there are photos of him with the Dalai Lama and celebrities such as Hollywood star and Buddhist Richard Gere, who was also looking for inner peace and answers in Bhutan. Mynak Trulku patiently answers every question in fluent English, like numerous other monks to whom tourists can easily find access through guides or hotels. They do not require payment, but a small donation to their monastery is welcome.
“We have more monks than soldiers,” says Mani with a smile. To ensure that tourists do not disturb their meditation and do not only see Buddha statues and colorful prayer flags as photo opportunities, package tours with a guide and driver were mandatory for a long time. Foreigners can now at least travel around the capital region on their own.
At the country's only international airport in Paro, guides welcome the guests, whose knees are often still shaking. The approach through narrow high valleys is a bit like a roller coaster ride.
Only around 50 pilots have a license to land in Paro. On the ground, the curves continue along mountain roads populated by dogs, cows and horses. The general speed limit is 50 kilometers per hour. There is not a single traffic light in the country. Even journeys over short distances can take a long time.
Television only since 1999
The guides use the time to learn about the history and stories of this country with its extreme contrasts. While farmers still tend their fields with oxen, shiny new cars and the construction boom in the capital are signs of a new beginning. In the shadow of the almost 50 meter high Buddha Dordenma statue, people in designer clothes mingle with those in national costumes.
Of course, the guides also talk about the legendary Gross National Happiness: The king cares about the happiness of his subjects - free school education and health care, Buddhism and environmental protection should contribute to this.
In addition, the young “Dragon King”, who became the world’s youngest monarch in 2006 at the age of 28, is continuing the democratization of the country initiated by his father. Although he remains the most powerful man in the country, there is now a government elected by parliament. So it's all sunshine and roses in Bhutan?
No! Many young people emigrate because of a lack of job prospects, and the popular drug Doma - a fermented betel nut with lime paste and betel leaf - is legally available on every corner. Chewing doma warms and euphorias - but in addition to pungent bad breath and red-colored saliva, it also causes cancer.
Nevertheless, many monks also indulge in vice - especially the older ones. The younger ones are more attached to their smartphones. Since Bhutan was one of the last countries to allow television and the Internet in 1999, the triumph of modern media has been unstoppable.
How hotel tourism came to Bhutan
Bhutan, which has been isolated for a long time, only opened up to tourism late. Aman was the first international hotel brand to receive approval to operate in Bhutan in 2004 and initially opened a lodge, “Amankora”, in Paro. By 2007, a network of five lodges was created that can be combined to create tours through the country. The houses are located in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey in Phobjikha Valley and Bumthang district.
In doing so, Aman established the lodge-to-lodge concept in Bhutan tourism, which is now also used by other providers. Other international luxury brands have since joined, including Six Senses, Como Hotels and Resorts and Taj Hotels. There are also numerous smaller hotels, mid-range accommodation and guesthouses in Bhutan, often close to the sights.
The most famous of these is Parotaktshang, the legendary “tiger’s nest” near Paro. 900 meters above the valley floor, the monastery seems to be clinging to a vertical rock cliff. Its white walls and shimmering gold roofs are framed by gnarled pine trees and colorful prayer flags.
The nametaktshang means “tiger’s lair”. Legend has it that a guru reached the rock in the 8th century on the back of a tiger and meditated in a cave for years. The monastery built in the 17th century was dedicated to him. The fact that the construction was successful is considered a miracle.
Today the visit alone is still sweaty: there is a strenuous walk to the monastery at around 3,120 meters. You should allow two to three hours for the climb of around four kilometers. At least half of it can be carried by mules or ponies.
Archery and active holidays
Bhutan's popular sport, archery, is also surprisingly strenuous and tourists can try it out for free in numerous hotels or at one of the many shooting ranges. The best shooters regularly take part in the Olympics. There they shoot with modern sports equipment. In the stadium in Thimphu they use traditional bows - dressed in traditional costumes, of course.
Competitions take place every weekend and the audience takes part with passion. The athletes also loudly applaud their own hits and their opponents' missed shots are acknowledged with mocking hops, reminiscent of traditional masked dances.
Without an audience, but no less exciting, you can go rafting, cycling or hiking. Especially on the Snowmen Trek, where even trained people often lose their breath: the guided tour, which travel providers have in their program as an “adventure”, is considered one of the most difficult trails in the world. It takes around four weeks to cover around 300 kilometers through lonely valleys and over eleven passes up to 5,320 meters high.
In the Himalayan state it would go even higher. But mountaineering above 6,000 meters is forbidden so as not to disturb the gods. The 7,570 meter high Gangkhar Puensum remains the highest unclimbed mountain in the world for the time being. The best place to admire it is from the Dochu La pass at 3,100 meters between Thimphu and the Punakha Valley, which, with its subtropical climate, is significantly milder in winter than the bitterly cold Thimphu.
The view from Punakha Dzong stretches across orchards and rice terraces to the spectacular peaks on the horizon. The royal palace and monastery at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers is also considered the most beautiful in all of Bhutan.
Links, tips, practical information:
Destination: The Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan is located in the eastern Himalayas. It attracts with untouched mountain landscapes and spectacular monasteries.
Best time to travel: In spring and autumn it is usually dry and clear, so there is a clear view of the Himalayan peaks.
Getting there: There are direct flights with Druk Air (drukair.com.bt) to Paro from New Delhi, Kathmandu, Bangkok and Singapore, among others. Connections from Frankfurt or Munich can be booked via Air India (airindia.com).
Entry formalities: To enter Bhutan, German citizens need an electronic visa and a passport that is valid for at least six months upon departure. The one-time visa fee is US$40 (immi.gov.bt). The previous obligation to book package holidays in advance with state-determined minimum daily rates no longer exists. Instead, international travelers are charged a “Sustainable Development Fee” of currently $100 per person per night.
Booking: Travel and accommodation can generally be booked individually. However, a licensed guide is still required for visits to dzongs, monasteries and other religious monuments, as well as for tours to certain regions and trekking areas. That's why many visitors still book an individually tailored or flat-rate package through a tour operator.
Further information: visitbhutan.com
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