BackDior 2027夏季女裝系列:Jonathan Anderson以「文玩核桃」與輕盈感重塑經典
Dior 2027夏季女裝系列:Jonathan Anderson以「文玩核桃」與輕盈感重塑經典
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自由时报1 hour agoCulture3 min readChinaView translation

Dior 2027夏季女裝系列:Jonathan Anderson以「文玩核桃」與輕盈感重塑經典

Dior 2027夏季女裝系列於巴黎登場,設計總監Jonathan Anderson透過對稱與不對稱的實驗,將自然形態與結構剪裁完美融合。

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Dior 2027夏季女裝系列在巴黎發布,設計總監Jonathan Anderson以「輕盈」為題,從東方文玩核桃與自然形態汲取靈感,打破傳統結構剪裁,透過透視材質與不對稱比例,呈現柔軟飄逸的服裝風格。

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Dior 2027夏季女裝系列由Jonathan Anderson設計,靈感源於自然形態與文玩核桃。

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Dior 2027夏季女裝系列在巴黎登場,設計總監Jonathan Anderson取材自「輕盈」,從自然形態、Dior經典輪廓到東方文玩核桃尋找線索,讓原本講究結構的服裝鬆開束縛,在透明材質、流動線條與不對稱比例之間,展開一場關於重量的實驗。

這一季最意想不到的靈感,來自東方傳統的文玩核桃,Jonathan Anderson觀察核桃在掌中長時間盤玩後,表面逐漸形成光澤與深淺色澤,也從自然界「看似對稱、實際並非完全對稱」的狀態獲得啟發。秀前邀請函甚至直接送上一對文玩核桃,預告自然、時間與不對稱將成為系列線索;透明與不透明、花瓣舒展與藤蔓曲線,也陸續轉化成服裝語彙。

服裝細節可見Jonathan Anderson重新拆解Dior擅長的Tailleur結構式剪裁,不再一味強調硬挺結構,而是讓輪廓轉向柔軟、飄逸,透過輕薄材質營造流動感。蕾絲、絲質雪紡與歐根紗大量加入,透視與不透明面料彼此交錯,讓衣服隨身體移動產生空氣感;花朵般的立體輪廓、虹彩效果與短版比例則延續前一季元素。刻意打破平衡的長圍巾披掛單側肩頭,垂墜耳環也以不對稱方式出現。男裝與女裝的界線同樣被鬆動,2027夏季男裝中的透視剪裁套裝、金屬質感五口袋長褲與錯視刺繡圖案,都被重新帶進女裝。

Dior以條紋西裝疊搭襯衫與輕盈短裙,俐落線條中加入夏日的鬆弛感。

粉色花瓣層層覆蓋上衣與短裙,搭配同樣充滿立體質感的長圍巾,讓花卉意象躍上服裝。

白色西裝以深色滾邊勾勒輪廓,下搭銀色金屬光澤長褲,讓經典套裝多了未來感。

條紋上衣搭配柔和花卉長裙,不規則裙襬隨步伐擺動,展現輕盈層次。

條紋上衣與深藍色印花長裙形成鮮明對比,垂墜珠寶與單側裝飾增添不對稱趣味。

配件則讓自然意象變得更加具體,Dior Double、Dior Initial Hobo換上新面貌,自行車騎士風格包款加入拉鍊口袋、Cannage籐格紋與D、I、O、R金屬字樣;花朵攝影圖像登上方頭粗跟鞋,Dior Cigale更將鞋底化為花瓣輪廓。最具話題的銀色Minaudière晚宴包,直接變身立體核桃,讓開場埋下的「文玩核桃」伏筆,最後真正成為可以拿在手上的Dior配件。

Dior 2027夏季女裝大秀邀請函以一對文玩核桃入鏡,提前揭示Jonathan Anderson本季的重要靈感。

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