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BackBALENCIAGA 2027夏季系列:Pierpaolo Piccioli重塑日常衣櫥的優雅篇章
BALENCIAGA 2027夏季系列:Pierpaolo Piccioli重塑日常衣櫥的優雅篇章
Culture
自由时报5 hours agoCulture3 min readChinaView translation

BALENCIAGA 2027夏季系列:Pierpaolo Piccioli重塑日常衣櫥的優雅篇章

創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli以高級訂製技法重塑日常單品,於巴黎時裝週發表72套全新設計。

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BALENCIAGA於巴黎時裝週發表2027夏季系列,創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli透過72套設計,將高級訂製技法融入襯衫、牛仔褲等日常單品,以優雅剪裁顛覆品牌過往街頭風格,並以藝術家Aude Franjou的珊瑚裝置作為秀場核心。

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Why It Matters

BALENCIAGA於巴黎時裝週發表2027夏季系列,由創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli操刀。秀場裝置採用法國藝術家Aude Franjou的亞麻纖維作品。

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BALENCIAGA 2027夏季系列共推出72套設計,創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli從純白開場,到黑色與清透粉色收尾,以更優雅、近乎高級訂製的方式重塑日常衣櫥。

法國精品巴黎世家(BALENCIAGA)甫於台灣時間1日晚間,在巴黎時裝週發表2027夏季系列,創意總監Pierpaolo Piccioli以優雅而精緻的風格,顛覆BALENCIAGA過去十年在Demna手中建立的強烈街頭與次文化形象。72套新作以近乎高級訂製的方式重新整理日常衣櫥,從襯衫、牛仔褲、T恤到飛行外套等,都透過立體剪裁、垂墜與重塑結構比例,讓高級訂製走入日常,而不再只是時尚迷遙不可及的信仰。

Pierpaolo Piccioli以源自法國藝術家Aude Franjou的作品「Les Coraux de la Liberté(自由的珊瑚)」為主題,秀場中央擺放採用亞麻線打造如珊瑚般的有機結構,呼應BALENCIAGA對工藝、生命力與自由的思考。

秀場中央的大型珊瑚裝置「Les Coraux de la Liberté」由法國藝術家Aude Franjou採用亞麻纖維手工製作,樹枝狀的結構呼應本季自由、生命的共生概念。

Pierpaolo Piccioli透過優雅的視角開創全新設計篇章,重塑BALENCIAGA成衣系列,作為他的第三季成衣作品,本季以白色作為開場,連續9套設計以純粹色彩放大服裝輪廓。收腰白襯衫透過誇張袖口與弧形下襬勾勒沙漏比例,長斗篷、花卉刺繡上衣、羽毛與網狀結構則在米白與象牙白之間堆疊豐富視覺層次。接著以駝色作為過渡,再加入寶藍色、桃紅色、橘色等高飽和色調點睛,中後段透過大量純黑造型突顯材質與剪裁,最後三套依序以黑、白、粉收束色彩秩序,並以輕透粉色飄逸裙裝為大秀畫下句點。

2027夏季系列以純白造型揭開序幕,從收腰襯衫、長斗篷到花卉蕾絲上衣,透過俐落剪裁與立體結構,重新描繪品牌的優雅輪廓。

系列從純白一路過渡至駝色與高飽和色彩,為整體注入鮮明而現代的節奏。

壓軸三套依序以黑、白、粉色收尾,從俐落西裝與蕾絲層次,到純白長禮服,再以輕透粉色薄紗畫下句點。

Pierpaolo Piccioli將高級訂製技法直接融入時裝設計之中,透過偏裁改變襯衫、牛仔褲、西裝與晚裝與身體的關係,並把源自第55季高訂系列的縫製與結構手法,轉用於棉料與皮革之上,讓熟悉單品產生全新體積與姿態。蕾絲與鏤空也跳脫裝飾,轉而成為服裝結構的一部分,讓身體若隱若現;充氣歐根紗花朵則以近乎雕塑般的方式堆疊,為整體帶來輕盈且強烈的視覺張力。

開場9套全白造型在米白、象牙白與奶油色之間堆疊層次,羽毛、網狀結構與柔軟針織彼此交錯,在單一色調框架中,展現豐富質地的視覺變化。

Pierpaolo Piccioli將高級訂製語彙融入日常服裝之中,黑色蕾絲、立體花卉、誇張肩線與雕塑般廓形輪番登場,讓晚裝工藝成為時裝。

寬鬆襯衫、氣球輪廓長褲,到充滿流動感的鏤空結構與立體裝飾,展現剛柔並濟的女性形象。

Open Questions

  • 市場對此風格轉變的具體銷售反應為何?

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This article was originally published by 自由时报.

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