Expensive original or cheap replica? For Christopher Blumenthal, this question is actually pretty easy to answer. The sneaker fan founded "Dead Stock", a sneaker blog, in 2013 with which he turned his passion into a profession. But he has also bought fake sneakers: "I remember a situation where I swapped an Asics from my collection for a Yeezy 700." Without really looking at the shoe, he simply added it to his collection. "Then it turned out that it was actually a fake."
The fact that he didn't immediately notice that the shoe was a fake is mainly due to the fact that these imitation models are getting better and better, as he explained in the current episode of the ARD format ECHT? says: "I would say that the fake market is now so professional that even experienced collectors can sometimes no longer correctly recognize whether the shoe is real or fake."
40 euros instead of 1,000 euros?
And that's exactly what makes the counterfeits so attractive. If it is no longer noticeable whether the Chanel sneaker cost 40 euros or the original cost a four-digit sum, then more and more people are turning to fakes. Studies show that fake shopping is no longer a fringe phenomenon: as early as 2023, in a survey by the European Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO), 34 percent of respondents said they had knowingly bought a counterfeit product.
Social media in particular is fueling the hype surrounding fake branded products. A whole separate market has emerged for it on TikTok and in Telegram groups. Members give each other tips on the latest fake hype. For the research, the ECHT editorial team became members of such a Telegram group with over 30,000 members. Links to trendy fake sneakers are shared here every day.
These lead, for example, to the “Hacoo” marketplace app, where numerous retailers, especially Chinese ones, offer replicated luxury products. Anyone who installs the app can order models from Prada, Louis Vuitton, Dior or limited edition Nike sneakers with just a few clicks - often for just 40 euros including shipping, while the original easily costs 1,000 euros on resale markets.
Influencers actively promote fakes
In addition to such groups, many influencers and content creators also specifically advertise fake goods. They present so-called spreadsheets: These are publicly visible tables that are structured like sales catalogs, explains sneaker expert Blumenthal. There, buyers can directly select sneakers, designer watches or clothing and will be redirected to the respective manufacturer or agent.
Replicas can be ordered using such spreadsheets on platforms such as OOPBUY, SUPERBUY or ACBUY. Since many of these platforms do not deliver directly to Europe, the shopping agents take on the role of middleman. Very rare models such as the Jordan 4 "OFF WHITE" or the "Union - Guava Ice" are also offered as fakes - for less than 100 dollars, while originals are sometimes traded online for more than 6,000 euros.
“Damage the reputation of our brand”
When asked by the ECHT editorial team, Nike did not comment on how to deal with this. Adidas writes in a statement: "Adidas rigorously protects and defends its trademark rights; we focus on taking action against dealers and importers of counterfeit products as well as against so-called fake shops."
We are also working closely with the relevant authorities to achieve this, as counterfeits “may consist of inferior or even health-endangering materials”. "They damage the reputation of our brand, our partners and our employees who work tirelessly to research and develop technical innovations and creative designs."
Possession is not a criminal offense in Germany
Legally speaking, anyone who buys such products is in a gray area in Germany: for private use, owning and purchasing them is generally not a punishable offense. It becomes problematic when it comes to trade: there is a risk of confiscation, destruction of the goods and civil legal action by brand owners such as Nike or Adidas.
In practical terms, "fake buyers" shouldn't have much to worry about - purely statistically speaking. Around 5.9 billion parcels with low value arrived in the European Union in 2025, which is around 16 million shipments of goods per day. Given these numbers, it is clear that only a few shipments are actually checked by customs.
"Turkish original"
In addition to China, Turkey is an important hotspot for the production of counterfeit brand products. Around twelve percent of all plagiarism comes from Turkey. In Istanbul, one of the largest textile metropolises in Europe, a look into the shop windows full of cheap sneakers is often enough to find fake sneakers. Sellers speak of the “Turkish original”.
Emre is one of these bazaar vendors. He says that they also get visits from brand lawyers and the police: "The brand manufacturers' lawyers come and check what is being sold. If they find something, they take it with them and call the police."
Cheap shopping trip in Istanbul?
Fakes are omnipresent in Turkey because they are also produced locally, for example in a factory outside Istanbul. There is an intense smell of glue there, there are boxes, doors and bars everywhere, and the atmosphere is oppressive. A producer openly admits: "The white sneaker is a fake. I produced it." When asked why her goods are so cheap, she answers: "It's only a small difference in material and quality. The glued areas last just as long as the original."
In the end, this shoe costs 16 euros at the bazaar in the Turkish capital. That's why many vacationers use a trip to Turkey to shop. Anyone who brings fakes back from vacation for private use usually doesn't have to fear any punishment in Germany.
Except they can be confiscated. In 2024, German customs withheld over five million fakes worth 417 million euros. And in some countries buying fakes can be expensive - in Italy you can even face a fine of up to 7,000 euros.
Poor quality shoes
And buying counterfeits can be a risk not only financially, but also health-wise. REAL? bought some imitation sneakers for research and had them examined at the PFI testing and research institute in Pirmasens. The institute is considered one of the most established testing centers in the shoe industry.
The results are sobering: The fake Adidas "Campus" shows excessive abrasion, the material forms holes, even when wet, and severe knot formation, according to qualified engineer Kai Tinschert, who carried out the tests. The other fake sneakers also failed the test. The outsole of the Nike fake “Air Force CPFM” breaks completely in the test - the verdict is “catastrophic”.
Dangerous pollutants in fakes
The results of the pollutant analysis are even more explosive. A solvent is found in a Nike knockoff, dimethylformamide, which is often used to make synthetic materials. "Dimethylformamide is a strong poison. It causes irritation and is toxic to the liver," explains chemistry expert Ines Anderie.
The problem is that such substances release gases from the shoes, "even if you put them on the terrace and let them air out for longer," says Anderie. "If you bring them back into the room, they will continue to outgas." Not only buyers are affected, but above all the employees in the factories who work with these chemicals every day.
Harmful substances are also found in the fake Adidas “Samba”, specifically a banned plasticizer: DEHP. The limit has been exceeded and the shoe should not be sold in Germany at all. Expert Anderie explains: "These substances have a hormone-active effect. They can impair reproduction, damage the child in the womb and, in the worst case, cause cancer." The supposed bargains can therefore come with significant health risks.
Detect counterfeit goods
To protect buyers from accidentally buying counterfeit goods like Christopher Blumenthal, services like “LegitGrails” offer authentication via app. Users upload detailed photos of their shoes, which are checked by trained experts and supporting AI.
The company advertises 99.89 percent accuracy. The app also clearly recognized the four counterfeits examined in the laboratory as fakes within 30 minutes - despite their high-quality appearance.
