Fossil oil in the autumn season's fleece sweater

Polyester fibers account for the majority of the fossil-based synthetic materials common in clothing. Figures from the fashion industry's own organization for sustainability, Textile exchange, show that total synthetic fiber production has doubled between the years 2000 and 2024. In 2024, 132 million tons were produced.

The fashion industry has set a goal of reducing its emissions by 45 percent by 2030, but at the same time foresees a sharp increase in the production of synthetics, which makes the goal difficult to reach.

A large part is incinerated

Extremely little of the fibers are recycled – less than one percent in the case of polyester. Many garments consist of mixed materials and contain dyes, which creates technical challenges.

Dan Åkesson, professor of polymer technology at Borås University, believes that the industry should take greater responsibility for technology development.

- We are not very good at taking care of the waste and that means that a lot is incinerated in practice, he says.

When the clothes are burned, carbon dioxide is released which ends up in the atmosphere.

Recycling is made more difficult by mixed materials

The director of sustainability at Kappahl, Sandra Roos, emphasizes that polyester has a long life because it does not wear easily - and has an undeserved bad reputation. She believes that the large climate emissions rather occur in factories where fabric is dyed, woven and sewn.

- We need to switch to renewable energy. This is how climate change must happen, she says.

In the clip, you will hear how much oil is used to make a fleece sweater and why newly manufactured polyester can be better for the climate than recycled.