(CNN) - Paris Fashion Week, one of the most prominent areas of the fashion industry and the most influential in determining its trends, is witnessing increasing momentum with the launch of its activities, attracting an elite group of Arab and international stars, and the most prominent names in the world of fashion.
The opening day of the spring-summer 2027 season was marked by shows that took an intellectual and experimental turn, including a show by the creative duo behind the French “Matierre Vikal”, the Swedish designer Elin Hudakova Larsson, and the LVMH Prize winner Julie Kegels.
On the second day, attention turned to more massive shows with major French houses, including Dior and Saint Laurent, which raised the level of production significantly.
Maison Margiela also returned to the catwalk with a new collection signed by designer Glenn Martens, through which he continued to present his unconventional approach to fashion.
In a decor dominated by wilted flowers, Martens presented designs that departed from the usual templates, from long boots that reached the knee and revealed the toes, to jackets with sculpted cuts and shirts open at the chest, while floral prints intermingled with the decor elements surrounding the platform.
Saint Laurent gold collection amid speculation about Vaccarello
As for the Saint Laurent show, held under the Eiffel Tower, which is one of the most prominent stops of Paris Fashion Week, it gained additional attention this season amid speculation that this might be the last collection by creative director Anthony Vaccarello, after ten years he spent at the house.
The gold color dominated the collection in its various shades and materials, in a clear restoration of elements associated with the Yves Saint Laurent era, from safari-inspired jackets and trench coats to wrap skirts. On the other hand, the more modern cuts, including blouse jackets with prominent sizes, reflected Vaccarello’s influence in developing the house’s language during his tenure as creative director.
The show concluded with a musical performance by French-British singer and actress Charlotte Gainsbourg.
Jonathan Anderson redefines romance in Dior
Jonathan Anderson presented his new collection for the House of Dior in the Tuileries Gardens in Paris, based on the romantic character associated with the history of the house, but through a more modern and less traditional approach.
The show was held around a circular pool in a very hot atmosphere, while the collection included skirts, shirts, and pieces made of layers of chiffon cut in the shape of circles. Transparent and light jackets were also present, along with designs that relied on delicate fabrics and movement, to form the basis of Anderson’s vision of romance.
But the collection was not limited to soft items; The designer introduced sharper details, including metallic pants with a snakeskin effect, and designs that kept the shirts draped over the pants, in addition to mixing different squares and patterns within one look. Thus, Anderson combined romantic elements with modern style, far from the traditional image of soft femininity.
Dangerous show and message-rich fashion
At a time when fashion brands, amid economic pressures, tend to limit risks and avoid shows that may spark controversy, “Matierre Vikal” chose to present a presentation that is direct in its message.
The models walked on the platform carrying dolls depicting members of the wealthy elite on their backs, in a scene that quickly sparked widespread interaction online.
Rihanna's presence in the front row was one of the most prominent elements of interest in the show.
“I'm not interested in provocation. What I'm interested in is taking the risk of being free.” With this phrase, the presentation remarks of the American brand “Tom Ford” were concluded, signed by French designer Haider Ackermann, who continues to work on linking the brand to sensual fashion with a calmer, more confident approach and without direct provocation.
The new collection showed boldness through sharp openings that reveal parts of the body, and details that reveal underwear.
