1/10 ©Getty
Located this time at the opening of Paris Fashion Week, the Saint Laurent show, outdoors, under the Eiffel Tower, offered the Fashion Week public and French fashion admirers a breathtaking visual spectacle, whose images are already in the history of great international fashion, like the creations of the Summer 2027 collection by Anthony Vaccarello, one of the most perfect heirs of the iconic Maison founded by Yves Saint Laurent.
Paris Fashion Week, the calendar of Spring/Summer 2027 fashion shows
2/10 ©Getty
The setting of the night show is extremely suggestive, which normally takes place at the foot of the Eiffel Tower illuminated by thousands of lights. A waterfall of liquid gold, from the Tower to the lacquered walkway, on which three XXL chandeliers hang that seem suspended in the sky, to return to the atmosphere of the Salon Impérial of the Hôtel Inter-Continental, where the founder presented his Haute Couture. Everything has the same color, including the dresses under the spotlight.
3/10 ©Getty
Anthony Vaccarello, the designer that many rumors say is leaving, after ten glorious years of fashion in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, did not meet journalists this time but left an emotional and enigmatic note accompanying a collection that he had been thinking about creating for a long time, he reveals. At the end of the show he leaves the model block accompanied by him and reaches the front row to give his young son an object, perhaps the keys to the Maison.
4/10 ©Getty
Vaccarello received applause at the end of the show while the melodious voice of Charlotte Gainsbourg, one of the most recognizable muses of the brand, sang, as Catherine Deneuve and Laetitia Casta had done at the end of the 2002 Haute Couture, a moment that is much more than a tribute to the history of the Maison, which sent chills to those present.
5/10 ©Getty
"One day my name will be written with letters of fire on the Champs-Élysées", one of the most famous phrases of Yves Saint Laurent, who went down in history for giving the color gold the same value as black, within his vision of the women's wardrobe. "The color of the Sun", symbol for him of the uncontainable and magical feminine energy, is now the total inspiration for Vaccarello's Summer 2027 which sent all total gold looks onto the catwalk, with the exception of the latest releases, in black.
6/10 ©Getty
Dazzling and precious, Summer 2027 is the quintessence of Saint Laurent's opulent, luxurious, ultra-sophisticated style reinterpreted through the sumptuous lens of Vaccarello. The lines are those created by the founder, the workmanship is incredible. Lacquered cottons, silks that shine with a patent effect, lamé, organza, lace and brocades capture the light, returning flashes of varying intensity.
7/10 ©Getty
Everything is as precious as a jewel, everything is seductive, starting from the baroque sandals with high heels in the shape of a snake, adorned with stones and fringes of cascading chains. Everything is rigorously inserted into the ultra-known codes of the Maison which has made brazen elegance its hallmark. "I have had this collection in mind for a long time (...) this was the right time to bring it to light. It is very personal for me, full of emotion, I would prefer not to say too much and let you experience all its nuances", writes the designer.
8/10 ©Getty
It goes without saying that the jewels also follow the same aesthetic, baroque and made from gold leaf, they are designed to replicate with metal the same tactile and material sensation that runs through the entire collection. The beauty look focuses on a cold complexion and shaded eyes. The lips are slightly vermilion.
9/10 ©Getty
As always, the reference horizon is the Eighties, this time relived without exaggerating the proportions, as Vaccarello has done a few times in the past. Shoulders remain strong on overcoats, trench coats and sahriennes. The inevitable pencil skirts have a front slit and pockets, to give women safety and comfort. Sharp cuts and soft drapes, which skim the floor like a train, coexist in a maximalist and baroque collection.
10/10 ©Getty
Gold is available in different shades of intensity in the looks on the catwalk but Summer 2027 also gives space to animal motifs and bronze tones, which recall the brown palette widely explored by Yves Saint Laurent and also by Vaccarello. In the teaser of the fashion show there is Jean Moreau star of Elevator to the Gallows, Malle's film from the late 1950s, and Miles Davis who created the film's soundtrack.
