There is a tradition of eating mutton curry in the morning on Diwali in many areas of Tamil Nadu. Although Diwali is considered a festival of North India, but with time it has started being celebrated in South India.
Today it has become a big and important festival there too. In such a situation, how the tradition of eating mutton curry on Diwali started in Tamil Nadu is an interesting thing in itself.
In Tamil Nadu, there is a tradition of eating mutton or chicken curry with idli in the morning on Diwali. In some houses, a special feast of mutton rice is also served at lunch.
This tradition is followed in many areas of the state. For this reason, the price of goat and chicken increases significantly on the day of Diwali.
There is another tradition in some villages. Relatives and family members together buy a goat. Then they divide its meat among themselves. This is considered a tradition of 'Pangu Gosht' i.e. 'sharing meat'.
Three most famous stories of Diwali
Many types of stories are told about celebrating the festival of Diwali. Three of these stories are the most famous.
The first story is related to Ramayana. According to this, Shri Ram returned to Ayodhya after completing 14 years of exile. It is said that on that day people celebrated by lighting rows of lamps to welcome him. The same day is celebrated as Diwali.
According to another story, this is the day when Lord Krishna killed Narakasura. It is said that in this happiness people burst crackers, light lamps and celebrate by distributing sweets.
The third story is related to Jainism. According to this, on the day Mahavira, the last Tirthankara of Jainism, attained salvation, the followers of Jainism worship him by lighting lamps to honor his glory.
But cultural researchers believe that these stories are not behind the Diwali celebrated in Tamil Nadu.
King who gave meat feast to Kapilar
Dr. Tho. Paramasivan has written in his book Ariyappadatha Tamilyagam that Diwali is not a festival linked to the traditional economy of Tamil Nadu and the local weather.
He writes, "It should be remembered that the firecrackers associated with Diwali and their main ingredient, gunpowder, were not familiar in Tamil Nadu until the 15th century. The Diwali story told of Krishna's slaying of the demon Narakasura by Krishna has no connection with Tamil culture. Rather, it is a story that emerged at a later time within the Brahmanical religious tradition. It was only after the Vijayanagara Empire came to Tamil Nadu in the 15th century that Diwali began to be celebrated as a festival here."
BBC News asked folk traditions researcher A. Spoke to Sivasubramaniam.
He told that non-vegetarian food has been a part of festivals and feasts since the era of Sangam literature.
'It is a matter of pride to serve mutton and rice'
"Pulal" means non-vegetarian food or food containing eggs and meat. Today in some societies it is considered to be the opposite of vegetarian food and of lesser quality than that. But since the time of 'Sangam literature' there has been a tradition of serving non-vegetarian food in festivals and feasts. 'Sangam literature' is considered to be between 300 BC and 300 AD. The specialty of non-vegetarian feast is mentioned in a poem of Purnanuru.
Researcher of folk tradition A. Shivasubramaniam says that why the hands of the poet Kapilar, who is praised as a Brahmin who controls the senses, are so soft, this question was asked by King Cheraman Selvak Kanduko Vaziadhan.
In response, Kapilar says that apart from eating the feast of meat, curry and rice given by the king, his hands do not do any other work. This is why his hands are soft. A poem is also available on this subject.
"Pulavu Natratt Paindadi
Poo Natratt Pugai Kolii Oon Tuvai
Karisoru Undu Varundu Tozil Alladu
Piridu tozil ariya agalin nandum..."
This is the same poem.
Come. Sivasubramaniam explains that it has been a long tradition in Tamil Nadu that non-vegetarian food is considered a special feast food.
It has been considered a matter of pride to serve food mixed with meat to treat guests respectfully.
'There is no mention of the word Diwali in Sangam literature'
Come. According to Sivasubramaniam, "There was a time when eating rice food was considered very rare. Even children's games included the game of cooking rice. So, even though Diwali was not a festival directly linked to our geography and local traditions, eating non-vegetarian food became part of its celebratory food."
"Non-vegetarian food has long enjoyed the status of a special food. That's why there is a tradition of preparing a meal of rice with meat to eat with family and relatives on festival days."
Researcher Sivasubramaniam says that even today, among the youth, it is considered a matter of honor and pride to have a feast of rice with meat during any happy occasion or festival.
"There is no other special reason behind this. It is because of the idea of considering non-vegetarian food as a better and higher class food that the feast of meat and rice with meat have gained special importance."
He also points out that there is no mention of the word Diwali in Sangam literature. He says that this festival started being widely celebrated in Tamil Nadu only after the 15th century.
He believes that even without any particular reason, non-vegetarian food has taken its place as the most important food in festivals.
'Rice with meat mentioned in folk songs'
After this, BBC News interviewed Dr. K., Assistant Professor of Tamil Department of MGR Janaki College, Chennai. Talked to Satyapriya. She has been researching folk songs for a long time. He says that the feast of mutton and rice is also mentioned in the folk songs related to Diwali.
Satyapriya says, "When I was recording folk songs in Andipatti in Theni district, I came to know that the women of the village still remember a song related to Diwali."
"In that song, a mother sings that she doesn't have money to give her daughter new clothes on Diwali and a feast of rice and meat," she says.
"In response to this, the daughter singing the song says, Mother, even if it is with a loan, call me on Diwali, give gifts as per the rituals and have a feast of rice with meat. This is how the song ends."
Satyapriya told that there are more such folk songs. In these songs, there is also mention of the tradition of bathing with oil and then eating rice with meat on the day of Diwali.
Satyapriya believes that due to the tradition of observing Diwali as the day of Narakasura's death, it is customary to bathe with oil and then eat rice with meat as a way of paying respect to the dead.
She also points out that an old saying is still in use today, "Diwali all night and Amavasya in the morning."
Satyapriya says, "This means that on the day of Diwali, people used to eat rice with meat and celebrate the festival all night. After this, a fast was observed the next day. Sweets were eaten on the evening of Amavasya. That is why this saying is said."
She further explains that in many villages, Diwali does not just mean feasting and bursting crackers.
“Folk plays based on the killing of Narakasura are also staged that night,” he says.
Regarding Diwali celebrated in villages, Satyapriya said that many cultural traditions related to this festival can be seen there even today.
Purapporul Venya Malai refers to the tradition of serving non-vegetarian food and liquor as a feast to honor soldiers after victory in battle.
Satyapriya says that the word 'undattu' has been used there.
According to him, the celebration of victory in war by offering non-vegetarian food and raw liquor was called 'Undaattu'.
Satyapriya says that this food was not given only to the brave soldiers. The same food was also served to poets and people who came seeking help.
For this reason, he believes that non-vegetarian food has been seen as a food for celebration and celebration.
This is the reason why it is eaten as a special food even on the day of Diwali.
What is special in Diwali's Mutton Curry?
Popular chef Damu believes that initially the tradition of rice with meat on the occasion of Diwali was mainly related to making 'mutton paya'. Later the tradition of making mutton curry became more popular.
He says, "Cooking would start the night before Diwali. To make mutton paya, a fire would be lit on a wooden stove and pieces of goat's leg would be kept in the vessel to cook."
"By the next morning they would be well cooked. Then coconut milk and black pepper would be added to them to make paya. Idli or idiyappam would usually be made with it."
"After the morning meal was prepared, the same curry was eaten at lunch also. In recent years, the trend of making mutton curry instead of paya has increased."
Damu says that in some houses chicken is also cooked, but goat meat is mainly cooked.
They also say that even in homes where vegetarian food is prepared, there is a tradition of making gravy based items like Vada curry, vegetable kurma in the morning and pakora curry in the afternoon.
"People eat a lot of sweets on Diwali. That's why in some houses less red chilli is added and black pepper is used instead."
"Some people grind cashew nuts along with the coconut for curry only on Diwali. This enhances the flavor and thickness of the curry."
