Social media is driving the pursuit of “flawless skin” and complex routines to achieve “glass skin” among teens, with many prioritizing advice from influencers in “get ready with me” videos over advice from professionals.
But do teens really need a multi-step skincare routine?
For consultant dermatologist Dr Jonathan Kentley, the most worrying thing about the influence of social media is the "constant images of unrealistic beauty standards".
"I've seen thousands of patients and I've never seen someone with 'glass skin'," he said. "I don't think it exists, it's just over-filtered images that make kids think this is something they can achieve, when it's not."
Dr. Kentley says that visible pores, blackheads, pimples, pigmentation, redness, and scars are all very normal for teenage skin. But he adds that what's considered normal varies from person to person: "I don't think there's anything really abnormal."
More than 80% of people between the ages of 13 and 18 suffer from acne during their teenage years.
Dr. Zainab Liftah, a dermatology consultant, explains that most of the known problems you face during puberty are related to the hormone testosterone, which leads to increased oil production and the appearance of acne.
Boys may suffer from these problems to a greater extent, but girls also have more testosterone, so they have many of the same symptoms.
“This, combined with clogged hair follicles and inflammation, leads to the appearance of blackheads, whiteheads and inflamed pimples,” says Dr. Liftah. “Acne is very, very common, and it is normal and treatable.”
Dr. Liftah adds that salicylic acid, a popular active ingredient that penetrates oil-filled pores to help remove sebum buildup and dead skin cells, “can be especially beneficial for teens with oily or acne-prone skin,” warning that unnecessary or excessive use may cause dryness and irritation.
If you have severe acne or a serious skin problem, Dr Kentley advises seeking help from your GP or dermatologist, rather than relying on people on social media to figure out how to deal with it.
So, what's the best way to take care of teenage skin? Experts Dr. Zeinab Laftah and Dr. Jonathan Kentley share their top five tips:
1. Keep your skin care routine simple
You only need three basic things: gentle cleanser, fragrance-free moisturizer, and broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. That's all you need.
2. More skin care products does not necessarily mean better results
A complex routine that involves frequent exfoliation or strong acids can irritate young skin. Remember that the skin barrier is still developing, and this may cause damage.
Dr. Kentley says he's seen a dramatic increase in a condition known as perioral dermatitis in teens, which is linked to overuse of ingredients that weaken the skin's barrier, such as exfoliants and retinoids.
“Teenagers are increasingly adopting adult-like routines that include multiple serums, toners, masks and active ingredients,” Dr. Liftah adds. “These active ingredients are more likely to weaken the skin barrier and cause more skin problems.”
3. Getting enough sleep and a balanced diet are important
High cortisol levels resulting from diets high in white carbohydrates and sugar, as well as lack of sleep, have been linked to increased breakouts.
Dr. Liftah supports the importance of getting a good night's sleep, saying, "We know that lack of sleep raises levels of cortisol, a stress hormone that can exacerbate acne."
Dr. Kentley points out that studies have linked acne exacerbation to diets rich in carbohydrates, such as white rice and pasta, diets high in sugar, and whey protein found in protein shakes. But he emphasizes that everyone's skin is different, and that "some people may notice that other factors lead to irritation of their skin."
4. Do not mess with pimples or try to pop them
The risk is that you may increase inflammation by pushing the contents of the blister deeper into the skin, which can lead to scarring and skin discoloration.
Dr. Liftah says she is a supporter of the use of hydrocolloid star-shaped pimple patches, a popular trick on social media. “These patches work by absorbing fluids from superficial pimples, while creating a protective barrier that prevents tampering,” she explains.
5. See a general practitioner or dermatologist
If you suffer from persistent, painful cystic acne or acne that causes scarring, seek medical advice, as the condition often requires prescription treatment.
What about boys?
Many of the "problems" that arise during the teenage years are related to androgens, a group of hormones that are also present in girls, but are more common in boys.
