After a record 250 days at sea without stopping in port, the American nuclear aircraft carrier USS Abraham Lincoln docked in Thailand on Wednesday (2).
The stop near the Thai city of Pattaya gives nearly 5,000 U.S. Marines a long-awaited rest.
Pattaya is famous for its vibrant nightlife and sex tourism, earning it the nickname "Sin City". This label, often used by the media, is rejected by Thai authorities.
For US military personnel, Pattaya evokes strong historical memories. When weary sailors enter the city's bars and restaurants, they will be following in the footsteps of the hundreds of thousands of American soldiers who went there for rest and recreation during the Vietnam War.
His presence transformed the place, which went from a quiet fishing village to one of the most famous and frenetic party cities in the world. Today, the neon-lit alleys leading to the beach are much quieter than usual.
Bars on the city's famous pedestrian street — Walking Street — still show videos of women dancing, in an attempt to attract visitors.
However, there are not many customers. Visitors appear to be mostly Middle Eastern families, more interested in the Turkish ice cream vendor than the nightclubs. The US war with Iran has affected tourism and consumption, severely damaging local businesses.
Now, the prospect of welcoming thousands of U.S. Marines, who have saved their paychecks at sea for nearly nine months, is an exceptional opportunity for businesses in the region.
The American aircraft carrier departed San Diego last November for a mission that was initially planned to last six months in the Pacific and South China Sea. However, the ship was diverted to the Persian Gulf after the United States and Israel began military operations against Iran in late February.
Recently, members of the US Congress expressed concern over reports of food shortages on board the ship, faulty toilets and psychological stress among the crew. The US Navy acknowledged that working conditions have been difficult, but assured that the crew receives adequate support.
However, he refused to comment to the BBC about the aircraft carrier's stop in Pattaya, citing operational security reasons.
Despite its close relationship with China, Thailand is an ally of the US through bilateral treaties. Visits by US Navy ships to their ports are common. However, this is probably the largest American military contingent to arrive directly from a war zone to Pattaya since the fall of Saigon in 1975.
"This visit could be our greatest hope," says Anon Saiteer, a jewelry seller at a store near Walking Street. The establishment put up a large sign welcoming U.S. Marines and offering them a special discount.
"We have nothing to lose; we just hope they spend some money here," says the salesman.
However, American and Thai authorities are trying to ensure this happens without generating the sensationalist headlines that Pattaya has become known for. Thai authorities have determined that the presence of American military personnel is prohibited in some places.
One of them is Soi 6, a street that leads to the main beach and is known for its concentration of striptease bars. Although Thai police have reminded American visitors that prostitution is technically illegal in Thailand, it is estimated that there are between 25,000 and 50,000 sex workers in the city.
Many of them work on Soi 6, where they parade themselves in front of bars, inviting men in. Pattaya's numerous marijuana shops are also off-limits to American military personnel, as are some water sports such as parasailing and jet skiing.
"It's their decision," Mayor Poramase Ngampiches told the BBC.
"The American military did its homework," he added, ironically.
American naval attaché Kristopher Robinson dodged BBC questions about prohibited activities for military personnel. Instead, it stated that American troops "will behave in accordance with American law, U.S. Navy regulations and Thai law."
“We try to provide sailors with as many rest opportunities as possible,” Robinson said.
The US Navy organized a bus service between the port and Pattaya from 5 am to 2 am throughout the carrier's stay in Thailand. Two hotels were also made available for American crew members who wish to spend the night ashore.
Thai authorities have deployed hundreds of police officers to monitor the city's entertainment areas and warned local traders not to charge abusive prices to American tourists.
"Visits by American military personnel 50 or 60 years ago put Pattaya on the world map and turned it into a tourist attraction," says Mayor Poramase.
"Let's be honest: the city is known for its call girls. We understand the stigmas. We can't avoid them", he acknowledges. "What we can do is show that Pattaya has changed and now offers other options, such as sports, seminars, wellness programs and activities for the whole family. It's a mix of everything."
Both countries hope that when the USS Abraham Lincoln begins its long journey home across the Pacific on September 6, its crew will be refreshed and rested. Located about 100 kilometers from Bangkok, Pattaya was a small fishing village in the mid-20th century.
The first American military arrived in 1959, when Marines stationed nearby began using its beaches for resting, according to municipal records cited in a 2024 study by Thammasat and Chulalongkorn Universities.
However, it was during the Vietnam War that Pattaya's radical transformation began. The city became a stopping point for military personnel deployed to Vietnam, relatively close to Thailand even though the countries do not share a land border.
The city was close to the Sattahip Naval Base and U-Tapao Airfield, which housed U.S. Air Force B-52 bombers.
In 1966 and 1967, American troops made up between 11% and 16% of all visitors to Thailand. This demand drove the opening of hotels, bars, nightclubs and massage parlors.
A 1966 law allowed entertainment establishments to employ women who offered "special services." This has created a legal gray area, although prostitution in the country has been banned since the 1960s.
When American troops withdrew in 1976 following the end of the Vietnam War, the infrastructure remained and facilitated the transition to mass civilian tourism.
Meanwhile, Thailand was consolidating its position as a tourist destination. The country had a significant increase in the number of national and international tourists, rising from 200,000 in 1960 to 5 million in 1980. An agricultural crisis also boosted the migration of young women from rural areas to cities, according to the study by the London School of Economics.
In the 1990s, districts near former U.S. military bases had five times as many sex workers as those near unused U.S. bases. As the decades passed and the Cold War ended, American military clientele was largely replaced by European travelers and, more recently, Russian and Chinese tourists.
Currently, according to Reuters, the sex industry remains openly visible in the city, despite its illegality and frequent police raids.
Meanwhile, local authorities are trying to expand the city's tourist image with sports, family activities and wellness offers.
